Saturday, January 26, 2008

White Chocolate Butter?

Today is Alan's birthday and in honour of the occasion, I went to work on a beautiful cake. He requested white chocolate, not one of my personal favourites, and as I forgot about his request for liver & onions with lima beans for dinner, I felt I must do my best with the cake. Upping the stakes, I asked our neighbours over for cake and a birthday drink this afternoon.

I chose the "Black & White Chocolate Cake" from the "Baking From My Home To Yours" cookbook by Dorie Greenspan. I made the cake layers this morning and they seemed to turn out ok, maybe a little dry. Then I made a dark chocolate pastry cream (think really good homemade chocolate pudding) to use on two of the layers. Finally, I had to make a white chocolate whipped cream for the very middle of the cake and the icing.

This is where things started to get a little dicey. I melted the white chocolate over simmering water and heated some of the cream in a separate pan. After the cream came to a boil, I poured the cream over the chocolate and let it sit for a minute. Then I gently tried to get the chocolate to come together with the cream. Eventually it did but I was starting to wonder about it, and also about the time that I was running out of.

The recipe said to leave the mixture on the counter until it came to room temperature. It was very important, as anything warmer than room temperature would ruin the whipped cream. Once at room temperature (or was it warmer than it should have been?), I whipped the rest of the whipping cream in my Kitchenaid mixer, just until very soft peaks formed. Then I added the white chocolate-cream mixture to the softly whipped cream. The recipe then calls for you to turn up the speed on the mixer until the whipped cream mixture has stiff peaks. I watched and I watched and I couldn't understand why I wasn't seeing any "peak" action. I kept thinking that maybe just a little longer and the cream would whip up like it usually does.

Then the unthinkable happened. The whipped cream/white chocolate mixture turned to butter before my eyes. I was in shock and it took a minute before I dipped my spoon into the bowl to see if it actually tasted like butter. The curds tasted just like butter, but the whey was a wonderful white chocolatey liquid. I recognized that this was dangerous territory for me, being alone in the house, with a white chocolate mistake staring me in the face. Luckily, I had my wits about me, and I threw most of the mistake into the green bin (recycling for food products). I quickly chose another icing recipe to try, a chocolate malt buttercream, and had the cake assembled well before our neighbours were due to arrive.

Fast forward to cake time with our neighbours, Carmen & Carl, and their three kids. I didn't really enjoy the cake, even though I finished my whole piece (why do I eat things that aren't 100% pleasing to me? It's as if I am afraid of offending the piece of cake in question. Do I need therapy or what!?). The cake turned out to be dry and dull, an unfortunate way to celebrate Alan's birthday, but guess what - it really didn't make a difference to him, or my neighbours, or to me, even. Sometimes, it really is more about the time spent being together, rather than the food. And without flubs now and then, how would I ever learn anything new? Maybe my next project will be making butter - on purpose!

Monday, January 21, 2008

Lentil & Quinoa Salad with a Ginger-Curry Vinaigrette

I heard about quinoa many years ago when I first moved to Vancouver. My friend Rachel's mom told me about it, after hearing that I was a cook, and I have always meant to try it. For some reason, I had the idea that quinoa would be hard and chewy and ultra-healthy (like wheat berries or millet). Turns out, quinoa turns soft when it is cooked and it will actually turn into a mushy ball if cooked too long. It is a lovely grain and I will be making it a lot more often.

This salad is my suggestion to a group of women in a Bible study in Vancouver. Hello Ladies! My friend Shaila (best friends since grade 2) asked me for a recipe idea for a lunch meeting and this one is a winner. I would suggest also making a bowl of fresh hummus and/or tzatziki and having a basket full of fresh pita or naan. For afterwards, a hot pot of chai (December), and a batch of thinly rolled sugar cookies (December). If you want to have a second salad option, try the carrot & chickpea salad (June). Mmmm... wish I could be there!

Lentil & Quinoa Salad

6 c. cold water (for the lentils)
1 1/2 c. French green lentils (Puy lentils or lentilles de Puy), picked through and rinsed
3 c. cold water (for the quinoa)
1 c. quinoa, picked through and rinsed
3 or 4 medium carrots, peeled and coarsely grated
1/4 c. chopped fresh cilantro

1. Place the 6 c. of water and the lentils in a big saucepan, and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat and simmer, uncovered, for 20-25 minutes, until the lentils are tender but not losing their skins. The best way to test is to bite into one. Drain the lentils well in a colander, and dump them into a big bowl.
2. At the same time you're cooking the lentils, place the 3 cups of water and the quinoa in another big saucepan, and bring them to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat and simmer, uncovered, for 10-15 minutes, until the quinoa looks slightly translucent and as if it has a tail, a spiral separating from the grain. Drain well through a fine sieve or mesh colander, and add to the bowl with the lentils.
3. Add the grated carrots and the chopped cilantro to the bowl. Pour the vinaigrette over the salad, and toss together. Serve it warm, at room temperature, or chilled.

Ginger-Curry Vinaigrette

Juice of 1 lemon
2 T. red wine vinegar
1 T. curry powder
1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated (a rasp works great for this)
1 garlic clove, minced
1 t. salt
A few turns of freshly ground black pepper
1/2 c. olive oil

Whisk all the ingredients together except the olive oil together in a small bowl. Add the olive oil in a slow steady stream, whisking as you go to form an emulsion.

Shepherd's Pie with Caramelized Onions and Cheesy Mash

In honour of having just finished the latest Alexander McCall Smith books, "Love Over Scotland" and "The Careful Use of Compliments", I made this shepherd's pie for Sunday dinner. I don't know for a fact if they eat a lot of shepherd's pie in Scotland, but I am guessing that they might. If you have read any of McCall Smith's books, you will know what I mean when I say that he has a great sense of humour about human nature. So often, while reading one of his books, I have laughed and thought, "Isn't that the truth!".

The 44 Scotland Street series started as a serial novel written in daily episodes in The Scotsman newspaper. It revolves around a group of everyday people living in Edinburgh, and all of their ups and downs. There are now three books in this series and I think a fourth is coming out sometime this year.

I loved the Sunday Philosophy Club series right from the start. The main character is Isabel Dalhousie, an independently wealthy philosopher, living in Edinburgh, who is pretty nosy, and solves little mysteries now and again. I can't do her justice, but she is just the kind of person that I would love to know. And her niece owns a delicatessen where she can go for good food & coffee. A warning: If you decide to read either of the series, make sure you go in order.

Now back to the shepherd's pie. I ordered "Cooking with Shelburne Farms - Food & Stories from Vermont", from the cookbook club (I am trying to make a dent in my obligations to them!). One of the first recipes to catch my eye was this shepherd's pie. They use ground lamb instead of ground beef (they mention that a true shepherd's pie is made with lamb and a cottage pie is made with beef), caramelized onions in both the filling and on top of the potatoes, and cover the top in their own cheddar cheese. It was perfect for a cold, snowy, Sunday dinner.

Take your time caramelizing the onions. You want them to be golden and sweet when they are done. The potato mash is drier than the way I would normally make my mashed potatoes, but this is because of the richness of the lamb and the cheese. And speaking of cheese, I happened to have some leftover Colston Bassett Stilton from Christmas, and I crumbled that on top of the potatoes, along with some 2-year old cheddar. Lucky for us, Colston Bassett Stilton is available in Canada and the US, at better cheese shops. When I was going to cooking school, I did a big project on this exact cheese. I received 100% on that project, and I probably owe most of that mark to the fact that I had a good sized wedge for everyone to try. Check out this unbelievable Stilton at www.nealsyarddairy.co.uk

Shepherd's Pie with Caramelized Onions and Cheesy Mash

For the caramelized onions:
3 T. olive oil
2 lbs. onions, thinly sliced into rounds
1 t. kosher salt

1. In a large heavy-bottomed pan or skillet set over medium heat, heat the olive oil until hot. Add the onions to the pan and turn the heat down to medium-low.
2. Sprinkle the onions with the salt and cook, stirring frequently to make sure they brown evenly, for about 30-40 minutes or until they are completely golden brown and soft. You should have about 1 1/2 c. of onions. Set aside.

For the potato mash:
3 lbs. Yukon gold potatoes, scrubbed but not peeled and cut into 2-inch chunks
4 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed with the flat side of the knife
1 t. kosher salt, plus more to taste
1/4 c. butter

3. Boil the potatoes and garlic in a large pot. Cook until the potatoes break apart easily when poked with a fork. Drain the potatoes and garlic and leave them in the cooking pot. Cover the potatoes with a clean dish towel and let them dry out for about 5 minutes (don't let the potatoes get cold or they will be a gluey mess when you mash them). Add the butter to the pot and use a potato masher to smash the potatoes and garlic until blended but not completely smooth. Adjust seasoning to taste. Set aside.

Make the meat filling and finish the pie:
1 T. olive oil
3 medium carrots, scrubbed, trimmed and finely diced (about 1 1/2 cups)
2 lbs. ground lamb
1 1/2 t. minced fresh thyme leaves
1 t. kosher salt
2 T. all-purpose flour
1 T. tomato paste (use ketchup in a pinch)
2 c. chicken or beef stock
1 c. frozen green peas
1 c. grated cheddar
3/4 c. crumbled Stilton

4. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. In a large skillet or pan set over med-high heat, heat the olive oil until hot. Add the diced carrots and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5-7 minutes until softened.
5. Add the lamb, thyme, and salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 8-10 minutes until the meat is no longer pink. Carefully pour off all the fat and discard. Sprinkle the flour over the lamb and cook for one minute, stirring. Then stir in the tomato paste and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes longer. Pour in the stock, along with 1 cup of caramelized onions and the green peas. Increase the heat slightly and simmer for 2-3 minutes, until the gravy thickens slightly.
6. Spread the lamb into a 9x13 baking dish. Spread the potatoes on top. Scatter the remaining caramelized onions over the potatoes, and then sprinkle the cheeses on top of that. Bake until the top is golden and crusty, about 20 minutes.

*I made mine earlier during the day and cooked it at 375 degrees for around 45 minutes or so. I had already sprinkled the cheeses on top so I covered the whole thing with a piece of tin foil that was sprayed with Pam. When it was close to being finished, I pulled the tin foil off and let the cheese get nice and bubbly.
*I served the shepherd's pie with a green salad and a loaf of homemade crusty olive & thyme bread. I'll save that recipe for another time!

Friday, January 18, 2008

Maple Baked Beans

When I think of baked beans, I think of beans out of the can, maybe doctored up with some condiments. When I saw this recipe in the Barefoot Contessa's "At Home" cookbook, I was intrigued. Baked beans have never interested me much before, but after looking at the recipe and the picture that went along with it, I knew I had to try them.

They turned out to be delicious. And Alan loved them, which you might think was a given being all the good food that is made in my kitchen (yes, there are some disasters in my kitchen and I promise I will write more about those in the future). But Alan is somewhat picky, and just when I think I have made something out-of-this-world, Alan will snub it. This doesn't sit well with me, as you can imagine! With these baked beans, he was so enthusiastic, he ended up eating them three nights in a row. Usually, he "isn't into leftovers" (his words exactly...).

Beside the recipe in the "At Home" cookbook, there is a small picture of a pound of bacon with a knife. In the background is an empty package, presumably from the bacon, with Niman Ranch printed on it. For a few minutes, I thought this was the bacon that Zingerman's uses on all of their sandwiches, and I started to reminisce. I quickly did some research and realized I was thinking about "Nueske's Applewood Smoked Bacon".

When I did my short stint at Zingerman's Delicatessen in Ann Arbor, Michigan, I worked the early morning shift, starting at 6am. One of the first items on the "mise en place" every day was baking the applewood smoked bacon, for all of the sandwiches that have bacon on them (check out Zingerman's sandwich menu to see what I am talking about).
http://www.zingermansdeli.com/content/pages/menu.php)
It was impossible not to eat at least one piece of bacon every time I worked. Sometimes more. There was something so special and delicious about this bacon, it is worth the trip to Ann Arbor. Check it out at Nueske's website or from THE food mecca, Zingerman's...

www.nueskes.com
www.zingermans.com

If you need directions to the famous deli, just let me know and I'd love to be your personal navigator! Zingerman's serves applewood-smoked baked beans and it's too bad I didn't get that recipe during my time there. The next time I get my paws on some of Nueske's applewood-smoked bacon, I am going to make these maple baked beans and turn it into my own version of applewood-smoked baked beans. Until that time, I will just use the best bacon that I can find.

Maple Baked Beans

1 lb. dry red kidney beans
1 large yellow onion, cut in eighths
1 bay leaf
6 whole black peppercorns
3/4 c. pure maple syrup
1/2 c. ketchup
1 T. Chinese chili paste
1 T. grated fresh ginger
1 t. kosher salt
5 oz. thick-cut smoked bacon, cubed

1. Soak beans in a large bowl filled with lots of cold water. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Drain and rinse the beans and then drain again.
2. Place the beans in a large pot with 2 litres (8 cups) of water, the onion slices, bay leaf, and peppercorns. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for about 50 minutes, or until tender. A good test is to scoop up several beans in a spoon and blow on them: if the skins start to peel off, they're done. This really works! Drain the beans, reserving the cooking liquid.
3. Preheat the oven to 225 degrees. In a small saucepan, whisk together the maple syrup, brown sugar, ketchup, chili paste, ginger, salt, and 1 1/2 cups of the cooking liquid, still reserving the remaining liquid. Bring to a simmer and cook over medium heat for 5 minutes.
4. Transfer the beans to a large pot that will fit in your oven. Push half the bacon into the beans and place the rest on top. Pour the maple syrup sauce over the beans. Place the lid on top and bake for 6 to 8 hours. Check occasionally and if the beans are too dry, add 1/2 cup more of the cooking liquid. When the beans are done, remove the bay leaf. Serve hot.

Sunday, January 13, 2008

Homemade Shake & Bake Chicken

I remember eating a lot of Shake & Bake chicken when I was growing up. And I remember loving it. Now that I am feeding my own family, I have never thought of buying a Shake & Bake mix for dinner but when I saw a homemade version in Bonnie Stern's "The Best of Heart Smart Cooking", I didn't hesitate. This recipe isn't glitzy, but it is good. And on a weekday night, that is what really counts.

This cookbook by Bonnie Stern is destined to be a true classic. It is right up there with my "Best of Canadian Living Cookbook" in terms of being full of consistent, flavourful recipes and having lots of Canadian content. The world needs more Canadian content, don't you think?!

The great thing about this recipe is it's flexibility. If you are having more people for dinner, just add more chicken. If you don't have any dry mustard, don't worry about it. Sometimes I put the minced garlic in the buttermilk or OJ, and sometimes I don't . I have used both the OJ and the milk, and depending on the amount of chicken, I sometimes add a bit more to cover the chicken.

Homemade Shake & Bake Chicken

3 chicken legs & 3 thighs, cut apart if not already separated
1/2 c. buttermilk or orange juice
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 c. dry bread crumbs (I have used Saltine cracker crumbs and also fresh bread crumbs. Whatever you have will work.)
2 T. cornmeal
1 T. paprika, use smoked paprika if have it
1 T. sugar
1/2 t. chili powder
1 t. salt
1 t. dry mustard
1 t. ground cumin

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Wash and dry the chicken pieces and toss with the buttermilk (or OJ) and garlic. Marinate for at least 10 minutes.
2. While the chicken is marinating, combine all the dry ingredients in a large Ziploc bag.
3. Shake the excess liquid off the chicken and add it one piece at a time to the plastic bag. Shake until completely coated and place on a parchment lined baking sheet.
4. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, or until cooked through, brown and crisp. Serves two adults and two kids with leftovers - sometimes.

Thursday, January 10, 2008

Cheesy Tuna on English Muffins

My Dad has requested that I put my tuna melt recipe on "The Good Egg Blog" almost since the beginning. This being his birthday, and it also being a very special birthday at that (did I already mention that he is 70 years young today???), I have decided to give him this gift. The recipe that was given to me by his Mom, Grandma McDonald, was a perfect lunch dish and she made this for us often.

I have found tuna melts to be a great lunch dish for my kids. However, keep this in mind if you are making tuna melts for company: not everyone likes tuna and I really like my own, but not necessarily anyone else's. Last spring, my parents had my cousin and her fiance over for lunch. When I called my Mom that morning, I asked her what she was making for lunch. "Tuna melts," was her answer and I groaned. How did she know that either of them even liked tuna? When I spoke to her later that day, she admitted that my cousin's fiance did not like tuna. I am sure he was starving by the time they peeled out of the drive, making for the nearest Tim Horton's. (not a quick drive from my parent's house!)

I have my own way of making tuna melts these days. I add cornichon pickles, dill pickles, and green onions. I also use more tuna and less mayo. I top the melts with my favourite stand-by, Balderson Cheddar. I really like both of these tuna melts and I won't make my Dad pick his favourite, especially on his Birthday! Happy Birthday Dad!

Cheesy Tuna on English Muffins

1 can of tuna, drained and flaked
1 c. finely shredded Swiss cheese
1/2 c. mayonnaise
1 T. lemon juice
1/4 t. Worcestershire sauce
1/8 t. Tabasco sauce
6 English muffins, split & lightly toasted (or use hamburg buns*)

Mix together tuna, 3/4 c. cheese, mayonnaise, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce & Tabasco sauce. Spread 1 1/2 T. of filling on each muffin. Sprinkle each with cheese and paprika. Broil about 3" from source of heat for 2-3 minutes or until cheese is melted and bubbly.
From Grandma McDonald

*My husband Alan has mocked me over the years for calling hamburgers, hamburgs. I am wondering if this is a Canadian small-town word or strictly a Southern Ontario colloquialism?

Monday, January 7, 2008

Ribollita Soup

I had thought about making the Barefoot Contessa's Ribollita for a while. Then I heard a friend of mine say that not only did she make it, it turned out to be the best soup she had ever made. I quickly assembled all of the ingredients and made it as soon as I could. Since then, I have made it three times and it has become one of my all-time favourite soups. The recipe is in the "Barefoot Contessa At Home" cookbook. When this cookbook first came out, I was underwhelmed but since then, I have made several recipes from this book and as usual, Ina doesn't disappoint.

Ribollita is an Italian soup that was created to use up leftover vegetables and bread. I have never actually used bread in this soup but I am sure it would make an even more substantial meal. I think if I were to use bread in this soup, it would soak up all of the broth, and with all of the ingredients in this, there isn't a lot of broth to begin with. I have added a Parmesan cheese rind or two, when I have them. I buy a big chunk of Parmigiana Reggiano at Costco and I grate it up and freeze it in litre containers. The last one I did made almost 10 cups of grated Parmesan. Then I keep the hard rinds and put them in the freezer. I throw a couple into the pot when I am making spaghetti sauce and now I also use them in this soup.

Kale is one of the most nutritious vegetables you can get and I am always looking for interesting, tasty ways to prepare it. One of the reasons I love this soup is because of the kale. I found some really nice looking kale yesterday at the Clean Food Connection and brought it home, washed it, and then chopped it in the food processor. It is chopped quite fine and I can use this in many things without anyone really noticing. Sometimes I add it to the kid's smoothies in the morning and they have no idea, drinking it down like any other smoothie. I am no Jessica Seinfeld, but yes, I am a mean mother.

There are a few other things that I have learned since making this soup. I thought that 1/4 lb. of pancetta didn't seem like much so for one of the batches, I used a half pound. I think it was too much of a good thing and I preferred the pancetta to be more of a background ingredient. I have also substituted the fresh basil with frozen pesto from the summertime, and even left the basil out altogether. Whatever works for you will be fine. This soup definitely improves with age and I can't guarantee that your kids will like it, but most adults will more than likely be very happy to sit down to a meal of this. This soup tastes great with fresh cornbread, hot out of the oven. (see November 1, 2007)

Ribollita

1/2 lb. dried white beans, such as Great Northern or cannellini
kosher salt
1/4 c. good olive oil, plus extra for serving
1/4 lb. large-diced pancetta or smoked bacon
2 c. chopped yellow onions (2 onions)
1 c. chopped carrots (3 carrots)
1 c. chopped celery (3 stalks)
3 T. minced garlic (6 cloves)
1 t. freshly ground black pepper
1/4 t. crushed red pepper flakes
1 - 28oz. can Italian plum tomatoes in puree, chopped
1 bunch of kale, washed and chopped
1/2 c. chopped fresh basil leaves
6 c. chicken stock, preferably homemade
1 or 2 pieces of Parmigiana Reggiano rind, if you have any
1/2 c. freshly grated Parmesan cheese, for serving

1. In a large bowl, cover the beans with cold water by at least 1 inch and cover with plastic wrap. Allow to soak overnight in the fridge.
2. Drain the beans, place them in a large pot with 8 cups water, and bring them to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer uncovered for 45 minutes. Add 1 teaspoon of salt and continue to simmer for about 15 minutes, until the beans are tender. Set the beans aside to cool in their liquid.
3. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large stockpot. Add the pancetta and onions and cook over medium-low heat for 7 to 10 minutes, until the onions are translucent. Add the carrots, celery, garlic, 1 T. of salt, the pepper, and red pepper flakes. Cook over medium-low heat for 7 to 10 minutes, until the vegetables are tender. Add the tomatoes with their puree, the kale, and basil and cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, for another 7-10 minutes.
4. Drain the beans, reserving their cooking liquid. In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade, puree half of the beans with a little of their liquid. Add to the stockpot, along with the remaining whole beans. Pour the bean cooking liquid into a large measuring cup and add enough chicken stock to make 8 cups. Add to the soup, along with the cheese rinds if you have any, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer over low heat for 20 minutes.
5. Taste for seasoning and serve hot in large bowls with a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese and drizzled with olive oil. Don't eat the cheese rinds. Just leave them in the soup pot and they will continue to flavour the soup each time you reheat it.

Wednesday, January 2, 2008

Happy Happy New Year!

I have a feeling that 2008 is going to be a really good year for food. The letter below, from Bob at the Clean Food Connection, has started it off on the right foot.

Hi Moira,
I have great news for you. At the last minute the landlady offered us a lower rent for the next six months at our store in Mt. Albert to give us a chance to build the business here into a viable enterprise. And we have decided to take her up on that offer. As a result we will be staying here for at least 6 months and hopefully a lot longer than that if we can develop the local support we need to continue to operate a store here. Thank you very much for your touching story about our store. We very much appreciate the loyalty we have received from folks like you and it broke our hearts to have to close our store here. However, perhaps with continued support from you and others we can find new customers and keep our store in Mt. Albert open over the long haul. Any ideas or suggestions you might have in this regard would be greatly appreciated. In the meantime, to celebrate our staying here, we are having a Grand Re-Opening Sale this coming Thursday, Friday and Saturday at our Mt. Albert store only. 10% off everything in the store for these 3 days only ~ while stock and supplies last. Please spread the word to your friends and neighbours. Look forward to seeing you at the store soon. We will bring in your milk again next week - hope that's okay. Thanks again for caring so much about what we are trying to do here. Yours ~ Bob Burrows @ clean food

Was I ever thrilled to receive this email! We have been given a second chance to help the Clean Food Connection succeed and I am going to try my best to get the word out there.

We had a lovely Christmas with lots of great food. I soaked our farm fresh turkey in a brine for about 24 hours before I put it in the oven. Nigella Lawson was the inspiration for that. She claimed that by soaking the turkey in a brine of water, salt, sugar, onion, orange, and various spices, you would end up with the juiciest of turkeys. The turkey ended up being wonderfully juicy and I would definitely do it that way again. My brother-in-law, Jake, cut the turkey up into manageable pieces and then we roasted the turkey for a much shorter time. We had turkey stock on the stove for most of the afternoon and evening. You might find the absence of stuffing in the bird a travesty, but my Mom made her stuffing in the crock pot and it was still very good. (picture is of myself and my sister Lori)

We also enjoyed the Barefoot Contessa's Spinach Gratin and Smashed Sweet Potatoes with Apples, both recipes from her "Parties" cookbook. In the afternoon, we had fresh oysters, among other things, and the Barefoot Contessa's Mignonette from "Barefoot in Paris" was wonderful (a vinegar mixture with shallots, fresh dill and chives, etc., for spooning into your oyster shell just before devouring it). For Christmas dessert, Lori used up her stash of frozen passion fruit by making passion fruit curd from Nigella's "Feast" cookbook. I made meringue nests and then whipped up some organic cream. By that time, I don't think we had the energy, but I thought about sprinkling pomegranate seeds on top.

Soul & Oscar, or "the Hounds" as we affectionately call them, gave me a Japanese water stone for sharpening our knives. Included with the gift was a gadget which holds the knife in place at the right angle to ensure the best edge. We have yet to sharpen anything but I am one step closer to having beautiful knives once more. Their gift was purchased online from Lee Valley. Such thoughtful dogs!

In 2008, I have a few trips planned that will keep me hopping with lots of food adventures. In February, I am off to New York City for a weekend of feasting and fun with my cousin Beth. In April, it is back to Vancouver Island for the 2nd Bi-Annual Girl's Weekend. In May, our whole family is heading to Newport, Rhode Island for the wedding of my cousin, Beth. So you see, this year really is shaping up to be something of a hum-dinger in the way of food!

As for blog business, I have decided to start replying to comments on the blog. I am sorry that I haven't done this sooner, but a lot of times I would email whoever left the comment directly and continue the conversation that way. Please feel free to leave comments and chances are I will now respond to them!

There seems to have been an issue about locating past recipes quickly and without having to scroll through every single recipe to find the one you're looking for. I have changed the blog so that when you see the past months on the right-hand side of the page, click on the little arrow and it will display every recipe from that particular month. Much more convenient.

Most of all, I want to continue trying new recipes and revisiting old ones, pouring through my cookbook collection, and writing about food just as I am thinking about it in my head. Thank you for reading "The Good Egg Blog" and I look forward to sharing many more recipes and stories with you in the year ahead!

Sunday, December 30, 2007

Creamy Lemon-Herb Dressing

I have been looking for a creamy salad dressing for a while now. I was getting tired of the same old vinaigrettes but I still wanted a salad dressing that wasn't from a bottle. This recipe was a revelation! It is creamy but not thick. It covers the lettuce without drowning it and the flavour is very near perfection. The recipe is from Patricia Wells newest cookbook, "Vegetable Harvest". She uses chives and they are great, but if you have another fresh herb in your fridge (or garden, depending on where you live this time of year) give that a try too. I love fresh tarragon and chives equally, so I have been choosing whatever looks best at the store.

Creamy Lemon-Herb Dressing

2 T. freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/2 t. fine sea salt
1 c. light cream (10%, half & half)
1/3 c. finely minced herbs, such as chives, tarragon, or dill

In a small container with a lid, combine the lemon juice and salt. Cover and shake to dissolve the salt. Add the cream and chives. Shake to blend. Taste for seasoning. Store, covered and refrigerated, for up to one week. Shake to blend again before using.

Thursday, December 27, 2007

Farewell to a Grocery Store

A few days before Christmas, the kids & I popped into our local organic grocery store, the Clean Food Connection, to pick up our weekly order of milk and bread. I was getting ready to check out and I noticed a letter on the counter. That letter was letting me know that "my" grocery store would be closing, as of 4pm on Christmas Eve.

The news hit me hard. I didn't start crying until I got out to the car, then through my tears, I tried to explain to the kids why I was upset. We had the luxury of a small grocery store that carried a good selection of organic fruits & veggies, milk, meats, fish... you name it, it was probably there. Every week, we ordered Harmony 1% organic milk and a loaf of bread from the organic bakery in Aurora, usually a loaf of yellow-coloured challah. Once we were in the store, I would stock up on goat's milk yogurt (individual containers with fruit), chicken (local farm-fresh were The Best Ever), beef (from the owner's own pasture-fed cows, who I might add, also get to eat any old fruits & veggies that can't be sold), wild sockeye salmon, fresh herbs, and local produce in season.

The Clean Food Connection was in Mount Albert for seven years apparently. Having only moved here in April, I had a relatively short relationship with the store. From the first day I went into the store though, I knew that it was a special place, and I better "use it, or lose it". Unfortunately, I have met more than a few people who live here but have never even gone into the store to see what it was all about. That is probably why it no longer made sense for Bob, the owner, to continue to try to make a go here.

So, this was a sad day. Not only for my family, but for this community as well. There are now more empty store fronts along our main street than there are working businesses. Since April, a flower shop has picked up and moved to another town and a pet shop (owned by my neighbour) has closed its doors. I find it funny that a town that is growing (more new development happening all the time) isn't able to support local businesses, beyond the most basic. Katie, one of the women at the Clean Food Connection summed it up well. A woman went into the store to buy some rice chips. The bag cost her $4.29. She then proceeded to complain that Walmart sells the same chips for only $3.99. Isn't the convenience of having a store in your own community worth that extra thirty cents? Wouldn't it cost her more (and all of us in the long run) to hop in her car and drive the 20 or so minutes to the closest Walmart?

On the bright side of things, since opening the Clean Food Connection seven years ago, Bob (who is a retired teacher) has opened two other locations, in Newmarket and Uxbridge. He also does a brisk online business and that may be the route that we take from now on . Bob will deliver your groceries right to your door. I am glad to know that I can still buy his beef (it tastes the way I think beef tasted when I was a kid) and all of the other special food that he sells. To check out the website, go to www.cleanfoodconnection.com

When I went into the Clean Food Connection on Christmas Eve to pick up my turkey, the women asked if I was doing OK. I told them that the news had really upset me. They could tell. We were able to laugh about it. Maybe my sadness was made worse by a case of "Christmas hormones"? Perhaps, but I am still sad.

Smoked Trout Dip

On Christmas day, we usually have a small feast before the the big dinner. This year, we had Christmas at our house and the feast looked something like this... A selection of cheeses (La Sauvagine, St. Andre, Colston Bassett Stilton), homemade crostinis, large prawns (cooked in their shells; so plump and juicy) with cocktail sauce, fresh oysters with a mignonette (from the "Barefoot in Paris" cookbook), delicious cured sausages (pronounced "cha-bys"), and a delicious smoked rainbow trout dip.

This was the first time I bought smoked trout and I was so happy that I did. It came away from the skin very easily and it has a wonderful smoked flavour. I made a bowl of this dip on the 23rd thinking that I would have one more thing out of the way. However, it was so good, I ended up making more of the dip before the festivities even began. The second time around, I added the chopped capers and I liked the dip even more.

In the words of my brother-in-law Jake, "Give me smoked trout over smoked salmon any day." Try it and see for yourself!

Smoked Trout Dip

1 - 8 oz. pkg. cream cheese, at room temperature
1 whole smoked trout, skin removed, flaked into pieces
1 or 2 green onions, chopped
2 T. fresh dill, chopped
1 T. capers, finely chopped
1 T. fresh squeezed lemon juice
1/3 c. sour cream
Salt & pepper to taste

In a medium bowl, mix together the cream cheese and trout. Add the rest of the ingredients. Serve with crostini or crackers. This dip is very good the day you make it, but it is even better the next day.

Thursday, December 20, 2007

Humble Hermits

I just received a book from my friend Elaine. "The Tenth Muse: My Life in Food" by Judith Jones. I glanced through it and then went directly to the back of the book where there are about 50 or so recipes. So many of the recipes looked good but I have been on a Christmas cookie mission and I couldn't resist trying the Hermits. She calls them "Mrs. Cooney's Hermits" but I love the sound of "Humble Hermits". They aren't fancy but they are absolutely wonderful.

I made these on Tuesday afternoon and they were in the oven at the time that Gavin was getting off the school bus. Ellen & I quickly dashed across the street, met the bus, and then I hustled both of them back to the house as quickly as possible. The aroma that met us was pure Christmas. Gavin said, "Something smells really good!" It's memories like that smell of sugar and spices baking that I remember from when I was a kid.

Humble Hermits


12 T. unsalted butter, at room temperature
2/3 c. white sugar
3/4 c. brown sugar
2 eggs, beaten
3 c. all purpose flour
1/2 t. salt
1 t. baking powder
1 t. cinnamon
1 t. ground cloves
1/2 t. ground ginger
1/4 c. molasses mixed with 2 T. warm water
1 c. raisons
1 c. chopped walnuts
1 beaten egg, for glaze

1. Prepare two baking sheets (or one large one) with parchment paper, silpats, or greased. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
2. Cream the butter and sugars together; then beat in the eggs.
3. Mix together the flour, salt, baking powder, salt and spices, and add them to the butter-sugar mixture along with the molasses. When well mixed, fold in the raisons and nuts. Divide the batter into 4 parts. Place two mounds on each baking sheet. Shape each mound, with floured hands, into strips about 10x3 inches. You should have two strips of cookie dough on each sheet, not too close to each other.
4. Brush the tops of each cookie "log" with the beaten egg. Bake for 15-20 minutes, depending on how crisp you want them to be. While still warm, cut each strip into nine bars with a serrated knife.

*I used my large baking sheet and only made two mounds out of the dough. I got about 30 cookies out of the batch.

*These cookies look just like biscotti but they aren't baked twice for the crunchiness of biscotti. They are wonderful for dipping in your coffee or tea and go from being sort of soft to chewy as the time goes by after they are made. I have the remaining hermits in a glass cookie jar and I love to walk by, lift the lid and breathe in that wonderful smell.

Monday, December 10, 2007

Mahogany Buttercrunch Toffee

I awoke this morning, at ten minutes before six, to the sweet sound of Gavin singing "Deck the Halls" in his bedroom. It seems that Christmas has come to our house in a big way this year.

We went and cut down our Christmas tree on Saturday. There is a farm nearby called "Horton's Tree Farm" and it is a beautiful spot. A tractor takes visitors on a wagon to the back of the farm and drops everyone off with their saws. Dogs are allowed to come along, and this year we brought Oscar. After you pick out the perfect tree, you can either hop on the wagon again or drag your tree back to the log cabin where it is wrapped in mesh. Then you can help yourself to hot chocolate and marshmallows, and find a spot around the blazing bonfire.

A lovely picture, but then reality hits. The tree didn't look THIS big in the forest. We got it set up in our living room and we couldn't control our nervous laughter. A couple questions arose... How are we going to get the angel on top? Where are we going to put the couch?

We started trimming the tree (now I understand where this saying really came from!) and got it to "fit" into the corner of the room. The height on our tree is ten and a half feet, give or take. Let's face it though, the height isn't the problem, with our very high ceilings. The problem is the overall girth of this monster, taking up at least a quarter of our not-very-big living room!

I tried the Mahogany Buttercrunch Toffee last year, when I was still taking "Rose's Christmas Cookies" book out of the library. This recipe does require a candy thermometer. There is a chocolate buttercrunch that is made and sold locally. I think the name of the company is "Fraktals" and this reminds me of their buttercrunch toffee. Making it on your own is much less expensive and it makes a great little Christmas gift for friends. Just chop some of the buttercrunch into pieces, and package in a clear cellophane bag tied with a ribbon.

The baking soda is the key to this recipe. According to Rose Levy Beranbaum, "the baking soda gives it a fine brittle shear and less sticky texture" and "when baking soda is used, it combines with the acid in the brown sugar and separates the toffee into layers". I have made this toffee with almonds and cashews. I love cashews and that was a real treat, but they are more expensive than most other nuts. You could also use peanuts and have a good result.

Mahogany Buttercrunch Toffee

2 c. sliced almonds
1 1/4 c. light brown sugar
2 T. water
1/2 c. unsalted butter
1 t. pure vanilla extract
1/4 t. baking soda
6 oz. bittersweet or dark chocolate, coarsely chopped

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place the almonds on a cookie sheet and bake them, stirring occasionally, for 10 to 12 minutes or until golden. (If you can smell them, better check on them!) Cool completely.

2. In a food processor with the metal blade, pulse the almonds until they are chopped finely but not powder fine. Sprinkle half the nuts over a 7x10 inch area on a greased/buttered baking sheet (I greased the sheet and then put a piece of parchment paper in the pan). Place it near the stove, along with the vanilla and baking soda.

3. In a heavy, medium-size sauce pan, combine the brown sugar, water, and butter. Stirring constantly, bring to a boil. Stir often to prevent burning until the mixture reaches 285 degrees. Immediately remove the saucepan from the heat because the temperature will continue to rise to 290 degrees (this is fine but don't go any higher, for best texture). Add the vanilla and baking soda. Stir the mixture and pour the toffee evenly over the nuts.

4. Immediately scatter the chocolate chunks over the hot toffee. Press the squares lightly with your fingers so they start melting. After about 5 minutes, the chocolate will be soft enough to spread with a long metal spatula in an even layer over the surface of the toffee. Dust the chocolate with the remaining chopped almonds. Cool completely and chop into irregular pieces.

5. Keep in an airtight container at room temperature. Will keep for about a month this way. Enjoy!

*For easier clean-up, soak anything you used in the toffee in hot water or put it all in the saucepan, fill with water, and bring to a boil.

Friday, December 7, 2007

Christmas Sugar Cookies


I finally ordered my own copy of "Rose's Christmas Cookies" from Chapters. The Rose in question is Rose Levy Beranbaum, author of "The Cake Bible" and "The Pie & Pastry Bible". I have taken this book out of my local library several times in the last few years, always thinking that someday I should get my own. I love her recipes and she is so thorough that you can't help being a success in the kitchen.

Of course there are lots of recipes for sugar cookies out there. I have used many different sugar cookie recipes over the years, looking for a tried and true recipe that I could call my favourite. I believe that this one is it.

The icing is very simple and it comes from another excellent cookbook called "Great Cookies" by Carole Walter. This week, most likely inspired by the posting of "Moira's Favourite Things", I made a trip to Escoffier Restaurant Supply in St. Catharines. Along with a few other well thought out purchases, I bought some new food colouring. It is called "Spectrum Gel Food Colour". As you can see from the picture, the colours are vivid and really pretty. I only bought four and they are; avocado, egg yellow, soft pink, and sky blue. The colours look just like their names. I have read that gel or paste food colouring results in nicer colours and I would say that I agree.

While we were at Escoffier, the kids found a big display of cookie cutters. I told them that they could each pick one cookie cutter as a treat. They looked over the choices and when we got to the counter to pay, I told them to give the lady their cookie cutters. Out of at least a hundred different cookie cutters, many of them Christmas-themed and really cool looking, they both chose hearts. I guess we'll be making these for Valentine's Day, too!

Christmas Sugar Cookies

2 1/4 c. all-purpose flour
1/4 t. salt
3/4 c. sugar
3/4 c. butter (or 12 tablespoons), softened to room temperature
1 large egg
1 t. pure vanilla

In a mixing bowl, cream together the sugar and butter until light and fluffy. Add the egg and vanilla and mix until blended. (I use my KitchenAid mixer with the paddle attachment)
In a small bowl, whisk together the flour and salt. With the mixer on low speed, gradually add the flour mixture to the butter mixture and mix until they come together.
Add water, a few drops at a time, only until the dough starts to come away from the sides of the bowl.
Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and form the dough into a round, flat disc. Wrap well and refrigerate for at least two hours. If you refrigerate the dough longer, you will have to pull the dough out and let it soften up before you start to roll it.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough to 1/8-inch thickness (pretty thin; I think the thinner cookies that brown a little around the edges taste better). Cut shapes using your favourite cookie cutters. This dough works fine if you re-roll the scraps. Bake for 8-12 minutes, or until the cookies start to turn golden brown around the edges. Transfer cookies to wire racks to cool before icing them.
Apparently, these cookies will keep for "months" in an air-tight container. I'll be lucky if we have ours around for more than a day or two!

Vanilla Glaze

2 c. sifted icing sugar
2-3 T. hot milk or hot water (plus more if needed)
1 T. light corn syrup
1/2 t. pure vanilla extract
Pinch of salt

Place the icing sugar in a bowl and add the remaining ingredients. Stir with a whisk or spoon until very smooth. The glaze should pour off the spoon in streamers. Use additional milk sparingly. A little bit goes a long way. I divided the glaze into four small bowls and added a small squeeze of food colouring. Popsicle sticks and toothpicks make great tools for the kids to decorate with.

*During the process of icing the cookies, there were a few tears, a number of squabbles , and the green icing bowl broken into four pieces on our stone floor. Amazingly, I can't wait to bake cookies again soon!

Monday, December 3, 2007

Moira's Favourite Things

In the kitchen, that is. After having a few requests, I have finally come up with a list of my favourite things in the kitchen. I also asked a few foodie friends & family what their favourite things in the kitchen are and I got some great feedback. There was an interesting cross-section of kitchen tools and gadgets. I will start with my own favourites and then give you a list of what they couldn't live without.

1. KitchenAid Mixer - I use my mixer all the time, and sometimes I wish I had two! I leave my mixer on the counter at all times and this makes it very convenient to just throw together a recipe at the drop of a hat. I have a cream coloured one but my next one will be in red!

2. Le Crueset pans - As I have mentioned before, I LOVE these pans. I keep seeing the odd one at HomeSense or Winners but I can't keep buying them all the time! Once these pans are broken in, they are as close to non-stick (without the Teflon) as you can get. I also got a knock-off Dutch oven made by Mario Batali. This looks like a Le Crueset pan but it was much cheaper. It was at Costco for around $60. A very heavy, substantial pan that seems to be doing a good job, so far.

3. Candy Thermometer - While on the road, if there could be a chance of doing some baking, or in particular, making a buttercream, I should just pack my candy thermometer in my suitcase! It is one of the things that I consistently wish I had brought along and it is essential if you are making something and you need to know the exact temperature. No thermometer, no buttercream. I am going to blog my favourite buttercream recipe soon, that way you'll understand my pain!

4. Rasp Zester (A.K.A. Microplane) - By now, most of you probably have a rasp. It is a dream for quickly zesting a lemon or grating fresh ginger. I think the rasp from Lee Valley is great and it is a good price ($13.50). They also sell the attachment that slides on to the bottom of the rasp to catch whatever you are zesting. I don't have one of those so I usually just zest right into the bowl that I am using.

5. Stainless Steel Baking Sheets - These come in different sizes and I bought mine at a restaurant supply store. Most home ovens can only accommodate the 3/4 size of pan which is 20x14 inches. This size is ideal for many things. I also have a couple of 17x12 inch sheet pans. What makes these pans great is that they last and they can continue to look like new if you clean them well. I have other baking pans that I have collected over the years but eventually they seem to peel and rust until they aren't safe to use anymore. The stainless steel pans really heat up and hold their heat, making these pans very hot. I sometimes have to move cookies off of the sheets right after they come out of the oven, if they are in danger of being over done.

6. Parchment Paper - Imagine reaching into your cupboard and pulling out a piece of parchment paper, pre-cut to fit your favourite baking sheet. I thought that was only a luxury for chefs in restaurants until my sister told me otherwise. We go to a restaurant/industrial paper supply company called "GT French" in Niagara Falls, and I stock up on my "restaurant supplies". I also have two Silpat sheets which are excellent, especially for cookies.

7. Food Processor - A few years ago, I asked for a really good food processor for Christmas. I ended up getting a very nice (and expensive) KitchenAid food processor that had to be returned a few days later because it had sliced off part of the plastic lid while I was trying to grate something. We returned that one and I should have realized that I wasn't going to get the sort of quality that you would expect when you spend that much money on an appliance. After less than a year I had to have the bowl replaced because it wasn't clicking in properly to enable the motor to start. It took more than two months to get that new bowl (and close to $100). If I were to go buy a new food processor today (it is currently in working order so I don't have to - yet), I would get a much less expensive model, maybe from Costco. I thought I needed all those special attachments on my KitchenAid food processor but it turns out that I never use them, with the exception of the grater attachment, and I am sure that even the cheapest of food processors comes with one of those. At the end of the day, I love using my food processor. I just didn't need the cadillac version to get the job done.

8. Good Salad Spinner - It may seem strange to include this gadget in my list but about a year or so ago, I got rid of the flimsy piece of plastic that was masquerading around the kitchen as a salad spinner. I went to Costco and bought a very nice, sturdy salad spinner and I kicked myself for not doing it sooner. I no longer avoid washing lettuce for salads. In fact, I will sometimes even wash it ahead of time now.

9. Sharp Knives - Did you know that dull knives are more dangerous to work with than sharp ones? I have actually been meaning to have my knives professionally sharpened for a while. After six months of not having my knife magnet hung up, my knives are very dull right now. The knife magnet has at last been hung up, but the damage from storing them in drawers with lots of other things has been done. I should have a stone for sharpening my knives, but I don't. (I can feel my reputation taking a nose dive right about now!) I do have a sharpener that you hold on the counter and run the knife through 8-10 times. I think it is a Henkel sharpener. As for brand preferences, most of my knives are "Gold Hamsters". My head chef at Bridges Restaurant, on Granville Island in Vancouver introduced me to these knives. I bought my first ones at a kitchen shop in Vancouver (in Kerrisdale to be more exact) and since then I have found them at Ashley's in Toronto. I think the brand matters less than the state of your blades. There are three knives that are essential for every good kitchen: A large chef's knife, a serrated-edge knife (for bread, etc), and a paring knife. Start with these and make sure they feel comfortable in your hand.

10. One Litre & Half Litre Containers - I buy these at GT French, the paper supply store in Niagara Falls (they also have locations in Hamilton, Toronto, and Kitchener). They are an excellent way to store food. I use them for everything and they make my freezer look like I am running a production kitchen (I love that look!). The lids are sold separately and the bottoms stack nicely in the cupboard when not in use. There are 25 containers to a sleeve and they are much less expensive than trying to buy 25 reusable containers from your grocery store. I rarely have to buy more because they can be used again and again. I don't know what I did before I started buying these things!

11. Immersion Blender (A.K.A. Hand Blender) - I use my Braun immersion blender all the time. It saves time and energy in the kitchen, because rather than using the big blender or the food processor, the immersion blender just has the wand/blade to wash after. I use it for smoothies, vinaigrettes, and blending soups right in the pot, amongst other things. It also comes with a whisk attachment that I have used for whipping cream or other jobs that require some extra elbow grease with a whisk.

12. Colour-Coded Cutting Boards - There is nothing that annoys me more than the taste of garlic or onions on pieces of fresh fruit. I decided to do something about and I bought green and blue cutting boards at a restaurant supply store. The green one is for fruit or veggies that won't affect the odour-free board (such as cucumber). The blue one is for most other things, including meat. I also have two wooden boards that are all-purpose as well, but I don't put raw meat on them. If I have been cutting lots of onions and garlic, or even meat, and I want to get rid of the smell and bacteria, I wash the board in hot, soapy water and then squeeze and rub a half a lemon over the board and let it sit for a few minutes. I scrub this into the board and rinse well. This should remove whatever was on the board. Now, if I could just get Alan to pay attention to the rules...

Tools that were recommended to me by a few foodie friends...

Potato Ricer - I don't have one but I have often wondered if I need one.
Strong Pair of Tongs - Definitely.
Lots of counter space - One of the reasons we bought our house!
Wooden spoons - My sister and her husband Jake, collect wooden spoons and it is sometimes possible to find really great old ones at antique markets.
Mandolin - I have one but I don't remember where I put the blades... for safe keeping! The one I have is metal and is pretty heavy. Great for slicing potatoes in various shapes and sizes.
Batter Bowl - Can be used for virtually anything. The sizes mentioned were 8 cup and 4 cup capacities. Make it a bowl that you love and it will make you happy everytime you use it.
Small metal spatulas - Excellent when you want to get under something without disturbing it too much (like hot cookies, pancakes, fish, etc.)
Grapefruit Knife - I think I need one of these. Has a curved blade that is handy for little jobs, not just cutting grapefruit.
Mezzaluna Knife - A two-handled knife that you rock back and forth to chop things finely.
Maslin Pan - I bought this for my Mom for making jams and jellies. It is a special shape that was designed in England for making marmalade. My Mom swears by it now and I will probably get my own if I can find the time to start making my own jams and jellies. I bought it at Lee Valley.
Great Cookbooks - Nothing inspires me more than looking through cookbooks. Can you imagine a world without cookbooks? Bleak. Absolutely bleak.

*I have a few things that I would really like to have in my kitchen but I know they are probably not necessary. A good ice cream maker. Madeleine pans. A pressure cooker. Someone to wash my pots...

*Be careful about going to a Pampered Chef party and having too much drink. Someone (no, I am not going to mention who) ordered an avocado peeler during one of these free-for-alls! I am sure that the Pampered Chef has lots of things that are worth having in your kitchen (well, I wouldn't put money on it). However, if you are trying to keep the clutter in your drawers and cupboards to a minimum, avoid these parties at all cost.

Curried Lentil Burritos with Cilantro-Scallion Spiced Yogurt

I had almost forgotten about this recipe that Elaine sent me ages ago. I came across it last week and after reading it over, I started collecting the ingredients that I would need to make it. Early in the afternoon, I made the filling. It was delicious on its own. Then I made the yogurt and let that sit for a few hours before dinner. Again, delicious.

I have to admit that this recipe was really pushing the envelope of what my kids are willing to eat. It didn't stop me from trying, but to be honest, they ate a few bites and that was it. Alan & I happily took what was left on their plates and I gave them something else.

When it came time to put the burritos together, I wondered about the "French toast tortilla" idea. Why not just roll them up in the plain tortillas and save a step or two. Well, whatever you do, don't skip the tortilla instructions! The tortillas became soft and warm and the cheese was just starting to melt on them. This combination paired with the yogurt sauce and it was a great meal that I will definitely make again and again. Next time, I will put a different filling in the burrito for the kids.

This would be a great casual dinner if you are having vegetarians over, assuming they eat eggs and cheese. Adjust the recipe by doubling or tripling the amounts. I doubled the recipe but I didn't use double the amount of broth. I would keep some broth out and add it as necessary while the lentil mixture is cooking.

Curried Lentil Burritos with Cilantro-Scallion Spiced Yogurt
Serves 2

For the filling:
1/4 c. onion, diced
1 T. sunflower oil
1 t. curry powder
1 t. jalepeno, minced (optional)
1 1/2 c. chicken or veggie broth
1/2 c. tomatoes, chopped
1/2 c. red potatoes
1/4 c. brown or green lentils (not the Puy lentils from France)
1/2 c. frozen chopped spinach
Juice of 1/2 a lime
Salt to taste
Saute onion, curry powder, and jalapeno in oil over med-high heat. Cook until the onion begins to brown, 5-8 minutes, stirring often.
Stir in broth, tomatoes, potatoes, and lentils. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, until lentils are tender, 20-30 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare the spiced yogurt. Finish the lentils with spinach (no need to thaw it first), lime juice, and salt.

For the spiced yogurt:
1 c. cilantro leaves and stems
1/4 c. green onions, sliced (white & green parts)
2 t. fresh ginger, chopped
1 t. sugar
1/4 t. ground cumin
2 cloves garlic, chopped
Juice of 1/2 a lime
Salt & cayenne pepper to taste
1/2 c. plain yogurt
Process all ingredients except yogurt in a food processor until minced. Stir herb paste into yogurt; chill until ready to serve.

For the Tortillas:
1 egg
1 T. milk
1 T. chopped fresh parsley
2 - 10 inch flour tortillas
1/2 c. Monterey Jack cheese, shredded (I used Balderson Cheddar)
Blend egg, milk, and parsley in a pie plate. Heat a large skillet over med-high heat. Dip both sides of a tortilla in the egg mixture, then fry in half of the oil until golden brown on one side, about 1 minute; flip the tortilla over.
Sprinkle with 1/4 c. cheese and continue frying until second side is brown, about 1 minute. Transfer to plate. Cook the other tortilla in the same manner and sprinkle with the remaining cheese.
To assemble the burritos, place half of the lentil filling on the middle of the tortilla and roll the bottom and sides over the filling to cover it. Serve with yogurt sauce.

*I'm not sure where you got this recipe, but "thank you" Elaine!

Sunday, December 2, 2007

Chai Tea

It is impossible for me to open my jar of green cardamom pods without thinking about chai tea. When traveling in India, chai tea was a constant treat. The smell of cardamom brings back good memories of that trip.

I started making chai tea at home a few years ago. I was inspired to try my own by finding three recipes for chai from Vikram & Meeru Vij in the back of a book by my idol, Ari Weinzweig. "Zingerman's Guide to Good Eating" is exactly what it says it is. A wonderful book for people who love to learn about food, it's history, and the best foods available today.

The tea that is recommended in the chai recipes is Barry's Irish tea. This tea became my favourite drinking tea after I first bought it for the chai. Ari goes into detail about what makes real British and Irish teas different. It seems Ari was looking for a tea that visitors from the UK would appreciate when they were visiting Zingerman's Deli. He kept trying better and more expensive teas and they would never be happy with the results, usually saying that it was too weak. Finally, he was tipped off that what he was looking for was "CTC" tea. CTC stands for "crush-tear-curl" and refers to the way the tea leaves are processed by a machine. This type of tea has the "mouth-feel" that people in the UK insist on. The texture of the tea could be described as "creamy" and it really gives you a substantial cup of tea.

Needless to say, I found this information very interesting as I had enjoyed many delicious cups of tea while visiting England and I could never understand why brewing a cup of tea at home in Canada just never seemed the same. It didn't take long for me to find a box of Barry's Irish Tea. In fact, I can buy it at three different places in Newmarket alone.

This recipe is a combination of my two favourite recipes for chai. You can decide what your favourite spice combinations are by experimenting. This afternoon I made the exact recipe from Ari's book for "Strong Spiced Chai" but I realized there was something missing from my favourite brew. I forgot to throw in a piece of fresh ginger. Neither of the recipes that I like even call for ginger but I tried it and liked it and now it seems a little drab without it. I also prefer using honey but feel free to use sugar instead.

Chai Tea

2 1/2 c. cold water
2 tea bags, preferably Barry's Irish Tea or other CTC tea
2-3 T. honey (to your taste), or 2 T. white sugar
10 green cardamom pods, lightly crushed but no need to destroy the shell
1/2 vanilla bean, seeds scraped out for another use (I used the vanilla seeds in shortbread cookies)
2 4-inch pieces cinnamon
1 inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and cut in half
3 whole cloves
1/4 t. fennel seeds (optional but I like the slight licorice taste)
2 c. milk

Put all of the ingredients into a heavy-bottomed pot, except the milk. Bring the ingredients to a boil for 3 minutes and add the milk. Mix well and bring back to a boil. Remove from heat and strain chai into a tea pot or straight into mugs.

*I like to strain my chai into a tea pot. That way, I can put it into the fridge in the tea pot and just pour myself a cup whenever the mood strikes. Heat it up either on the stove or in the microwave.

*If you don't have one or two of the spices above, you can still make chai. As long as you have cinnamon and cardamom pods, you have the start of a delicious cup of chai. There are a lot of packaged chai drink mixes/syrups out there but I think once you see how easy it is to make your own, you will forget about the rest.

Tuesday, November 27, 2007

Chocolate Malted Whopper Drops

So much for easing myself off the Holistic Detox. But what can I say... I made it almost two weeks without chocolate and these cookies were a great way to celebrate!

My Dad has always loved malted milk. He used to buy jars of Carnation malted milk powder over in Detroit and it always seemed special because it wasn't in any of our local grocery stores. When my Dad and I went over to Detroit in the summer (when we were almost pulled in at the border for being over our limit in butter), I picked up a jar of the very same powder that we used to get growing up. I had come across a recipe or two that called for the malted milk powder and I figured one of these days I would make something with it as a treat for my Dad.

Yesterday was my parent's anniversary and they happened to be visiting us for a few days. I decided to make something that my Dad would really love (my Mom got flowers). Chocolate Malted Whopper Drops. Let's just say, they were gone by breakfast this morning. This recipe comes from my current favourite baking book, "Baking: From My Home to Yours" by Dorie Greenspan. Great book! I have also made the cake on the front cover for Gavin's Birthday and the Banana Cream Pie for my Birthday.

If you don't have access to Carnation malted milk powder, use Ovaltine, either regular or chocolate flavoured. The key to these cookies is to take them out of the oven before they look done. You want them to be very soft when you pull them from the oven.

Chocolate Malted Whopper Drops

1 3/4 c. all-purpose flour
1 c. malted milk powder
1/4 c. unsweetened cocoa powder
1 1/2 t. baking powder
1/4 t. salt
1 stick plus 3 T. unsalted butter (11 tablespoons total), at room temperature
2/3 c. sugar
2 large eggs
1 t. pure vanilla extract
1/4 c. whole milk (I used 5% cream rather than my 1% milk)
2 c. chocolate covered malt balls (Whoppers or Maltesers) coarsely chopped
6 oz. bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped, or 1 c. chocolate chips

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Sift together the flour, malted milk powder, cocoa, baking powder and salt into a large bowl.

2. In the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and sugar together on medium speed for about 3 minutes, until very smooth. Add the eggs one at a time, beating for 1 minute after each addition. Beat in the vanilla.

3. Reduce speed to low and add half the dry ingredients, mixing just until they disappear into the batter. Mix in the milk, then the remaining dry ingredients, mixing only until they are incorporated. They batter will look more like fudge frosting then cookie dough - and that is fine. Mix in the malted milk balls and chocolate by hand with a rubber spatula.

4. Drop the dough by rounded tablespoonfuls onto the sheets, leaving about 2 inches of space between spoonfuls. Bake for 10 minutes, rotating the sheets in the oven half way through. When done, the cookies will be slightly puffed and set but soft to the touch. Let cookies rest for two minutes before using a wide metal spatula to transfer them to racks to cool to room temperature. Repeat with remaining dough, cooling the baking sheets between batches.
Makes about 30 cookies.

*With these cookies, I set the timer to 5 minutes and when it went off, I turned the baking sheet around in the oven. Then I reset the timer for another 5 minutes but watch closely. Your oven might be hot and they may need to come out before the 10 minutes is up. The actual recipe in the cookbook said to bake them 11 to 13 minutes. I did this for the first dozen cookies yesterday and they were over-done.

*Try not to eat too many of the Maltesers before you stir them into the cookie batter. Once they are baked, the candies stay chewy but melt into the cookie at the same time, so long as they are taken from the oven on time. (I can't stress this enough!)

Monday, November 19, 2007

Black-Bean Salad with Avocado and Cilantro

Yesterday, I didn't have a clue what to eat for lunch. I threw together some Naan pizzas (my friend Tracy makes them for catering gigs in Vancouver) for Alan & the kids and I was really starting to wonder if I should just throw in the towel on my 21-day plan. All cheesy with homemade pizza sauce, mushrooms, ham and yellow peppers, they were really hard to resist.

I picked up the "Once Upon A Tart" cookbook and went straight to the salad chapter. So many salads to choose from, so long as I had all the ingredients. I started reading through the "Black-bean Salad with Avocado, Cilantro, and Jalapeno Pepper" and realized that I had a winner. I cut down on the quantities of the ingredients, opened a can of beans instead of soaking them for 24 hours, and within 15 minutes, I sat down to a lovely lunch.

Black-Bean Salad with Avocado & Cilantro

1 can black beans, rinsed thoroughly and drained very well.
1/2 sweet red pepper, chopped fine
1/3 c. red onion, chopped fine
1 celery stalk, chopped fine
1 or 2 green onions, both green & white parts, thinly chopped
1 avocado, halved, pit removed, and diced

For the vinaigrette:
Juice of 1 lime
1/2 t. salt or to taste
Fresh ground black pepper, to taste
1 heaping teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 c. olive oil
1/3 c. chopped fresh cilantro
Add some chopped jalapeno, if desired

Put all the salad ingredients except the avocado, into a large bowl. Whisk together the lime juice, cumin, salt & pepper in a small bowl. Add the olive oil in a thin, slow stream, whisking as you go to form an emulsion. Stir in the cilantro (and jalapeno, if using). Pour the vinaigrette over the salad and toss to combine, making sure that everything is well dressed. Add the avocado and toss lightly, being careful not to mash the pieces to bits. Serve at room temperature.

*I threw the beans into the bowl after draining them in a colander for a few minutes and lots of water went into the bowl too. I moved them out of the bowl and wiped it dry and then took a piece of paper towel and ran it around and underneath the beans in the colander, trying to soak up as much water as I could. You don't want your salad to be watery so it is important to start with dry beans.

*This salad would make a nice filling for a quesadilla. Just leave out the avocado and serve it with the quesadilla. Heat a pan with a little oil in it. Place a tortilla in the warm pan and spoon some salad on top. Cover this with some old cheddar cheese and a second tortilla. Cook until the cheese begins to melt and the bottom tortilla is golden brown and flip and cook the other side. Serve with the avocado and sour cream. Why didn't I think of this yesterday?!

*I use wholewheat Naan from President's Choice. They come in packages of two and they are so convenient to have in the freezer.

Thursday, November 15, 2007

Conspicuous Consumption & How to Make a Good Chicken Stock

Well, the shoe had to drop sooner or later. After having a wonderful summer and an even better fall (in regard to food), I have noticed that my favourite jeans are starting to look like floods. This hit me hard, harder than any other red flags, because of the "exact nature" of those jeans. I don't want to wear short jeans that are supposed to be long. End of story.

I really don't wish to get into all the personal details of my life here on the blog (Since when??? I can hear my sister's voice ringing in my ears.) but let's just say that I am trying to follow a 21-day Holistic Detox. If you are interested, check out the book "Dr. Joshi's Holistic Detox". This cleanse is not only to shed a few pounds. This will give me more energy and help me to feel better in all sorts of ways.

I actually tried this same detox two summers ago. I lasted 7 days and I really felt good. Then we went to Harrow and the wheels on that bus came off in no time flat. This time, I am feeling more confident. I am 35 now, and with that distinction, I am feeling strong and ready for a challenge. How hard can this be with an arsenal of cookbooks to give me inspiration?

Well, here's the first problem. I only like to blog about recipes that I LOVE. I don't want anything half-ass on this blog. If I don't love it and think you will too, I don't want it on here. I have been cooking up a storm the last four days and to be honest, there isn't too much that is blog-worthy. Not yet, anyways, but I will soldier on. I am determined to find some fabulous recipes that fit the bill, both for the Holistic Detox and for after it's over, when I go back to eating everything, in moderation!

I have been making a few things of interest...
Barefoot Contessa's White Bean Soup with Fresh Rosemary
Bonnie Stern's Thai Carrot & Ginger Soup
Caramelized onions with brown rice
Roasted carrots, parsnips, red onion and sweet potatoes
Broiled salmon, chicken stir-fry
Chick-pea and Carrot Salad (see blog for recipe)

The one thing that I seem to be using a lot of is my homemade chicken stock. There are few other staples in the kitchen that I think are as essential as a good chicken stock. It's right up there with onions and garlic.

Homemade Chicken Stock


1 carcass from a roasted chicken, plus all the drippings from the pan
2 carrots, chopped roughly
3 onions, skins on, sliced in half
2 celery stalks, chopped roughly
5 or more sprigs of fresh parsley
5 whole peppercorns
Salt, optional (I don't season my stock ahead of time but feel free to do so. I do all the seasoning when I am using the stock in a recipe.)

Put all the ingredients into a large stock pot and fill not quite to the top with water. Bring to a boil and simmer on medium-low for a minimum of three hours. Skim any foamy clumps out of the stock. When the stock has cooled down to a temperature that is safe to handle, strain it through a fine sieve and pour into portion containers for the freezer. I use 2-cup and 4-cup plastic containers that I buy at a restaurant supply store. I use these over and over again and they are very handy for all food storage.

*When I use a carcass from a roasted chicken, the stock is always a rich dark colour and when it has cooled, it will have a gelatinous texture. There is so much more flavour in a stock done with roasted bones/carcass and you get the bonus of having a great dinner, too!

*When I make my stock with a carcass like this, I won't be starting it until after dinner. I simmer the stock until I am ready for bed and then turn it off. I leave the stock to sit overnight and in the morning, I either strain it right away and get it into the freezer (if it is still warm from the night before), or I reheat the stock and let it come to a boil again. Then I let it cool down again and strain it after that. This wouldn't be appropriate in a professional kitchen but it works for me. In large kitchens, stocks are often left in the huge stock pots simmering away all night (these are electric stock pots I am talking about) and then dealt with in the morning.

*If you aren't going to be having roast chicken and you would still like to make a good stock, stockpile some chicken bones and parts. I buy whole chickens from the butcher and ask him to cut up the chickens for me. I always take the backs and wings home for stock and stick them in the freezer until I am ready to make stock. I also keep any bones that I may have from de-boning pieces of chicken.

*The key to having a flavourful and rich stock is in the roasting of the bones before putting them in the water. I spread all of the bones and parts that I have collected onto a baking sheet and roast them in the oven at 400 degrees for about 45 minutes to an hour. If I have space on the baking sheet, I also add my carrots, onions, and celery. By the way, a rough estimate of how much of the veggies to use is a simple ratio: 2 parts onions, 1 part each of carrots and celery. That way you can eyeball it without getting caught up in specific amounts.

With a little bit of effort, you can have a freezer filled with ready-to-go chicken stock. A stocked and organized freezer- now that is a beautiful thing!

Tuesday, November 6, 2007

The Best Roasted Potatoes

For my birthday at the end of last month, my sister and my nephew came to visit for a few days. Lori had mentioned that part of my birthday present was a batch of homemade wontons for soup. I was thrilled and we ended up having homemade wonton soup the first night they were here.

The next night was my birthday dinner and it couldn't have been better. We braised lamb shanks in red wine and Lori did roasted potatoes in duck fat. I am sure there were veggies and even a salad to go with that, but I was totally smitten with the potatoes, and I can't remember now! The potatoes were a crispy golden on the outside and creamy (I mean really creamy!) on the inside. They were unlike even the best homemade french fry. There are no words...

Roasting potatoes in duck fat might be something that is common in France, but the thought hadn't even occurred to me until Lori said that she tried it at home recently. She had been watching a show with Anthony Bourdain and he had done potatoes in duck fat. She was inspired and as luck would have it, she had some duck fat in the freezer. The duck fat came from two cans of duck confit that I brought back from France. The duck confit was excellent that night and I sent Lori & her husband Jake home with almost a litre of fat that came out of the cans. I am glad they had the foresight to save the fat or else it would have gone into the garbage. In fact, this is how committed they were about keeping the duck fat. After living with Jake's parents for a year and half while their house was being gutted and renovated, the duck fat was one of the few foods to make it back into their freezer after the house was finished! That is impressive.

For my birthday dinner, Lori used Yukon Gold potatoes sliced into wedges. She heated up my trusty Le Crueset cast-iron frying pans and melted about 3 tablespoons or so of duck fat. Once the fat was nice and hot, she added the potatoes and let them get crispy on one side before stirring them up. Once a batch was finished, she put those potatoes into the oven and started the process over again. The potatoes were seasoned with sea salt and they disappeared quickly once we sat down for dinner.

If you are wondering where to even find duck fat, check at your local butcher shop or specialty food shop. My friend Donna mentioned that you can buy duck fat at White House Meats at the St. Lawrence market in Toronto. I am sure there are lots of places that carry it but you will need to ask for it specifically.

And one more note about these incredible potatoes. When I mentioned the duck fat to Donna and my friend Elaine, they both responded along the lines of "Oh Yeah!". Elaine recalled a dinner they had at a home in France. She said that the potatoes were cut quite small and that they were unforgettable. The smaller the potato, the more crispy goodness! Considering the two friends that I spoke to about it were both converts already, I can only imagine that you will become a believer too.

Thursday, November 1, 2007

Skillet-Sizzled Buttermilk Cornbread

According to my notes, I have been making this cornbread exclusively since February '94. I know that it has been my only cornbread recipe because I really don't care to find another one, this one is that good. It comes from a cookbook by a woman named Crescent Dragonwagon. The cookbook is called "Dairy Hollow House: Soup & Bread - A Country Inn Cookbook" and the recipes are from her Arkansas country inn.

While living in Tennessee, it was a given that there would be cornbread with every dinner, no matter whose house I was eating at. Sometimes there would be leftovers and the most interesting use of these was shown to me by a friend's wonderful grandfather, who I came to know as PawPaw (you have to say it with a southern accent to get the proper pronunciation!). He would crumble the cornbread from the night before into a big glass and pour buttermilk over it. He would then sit down with a big spoon and dig in. I have a strong stomach for most things but I just couldn't bring myself to have buttermilk, cold in a glass, even if it was poured over cornbread!

The secret to this cornbread is in a few small details. Adding the baking soda to the buttermilk ahead of time makes a moister, slightly denser bread. A lot of corn breads are dry but this one has a nice "crumb" to it. I use my Le Crueset frying pan that measures 10" across the TOP of the pan. It fits perfectly in this pan, any smaller and it would run over the sides during cooking. Watch for this if you aren't sure if your pan is large enough. Make sure that the pan is good and hot and the butter is sizzling before you add the batter. I get the butter melting and then mix the wet and dry ingredients together. Don't let the butter burn but it should be bubbling, then add the batter and slip into the oven immediately. The hot pan creates a wonderful crust on the bread. You won't get the same crust if you are using a baking dish to make the bread but it will still be good. I have actually made it in a baking dish that I warmed in the oven for 10 minutes or so, melting the butter in the dish and then adding the batter. Of course, you can't get the butter really sizzling this way but if you don't have a cast iron pan, it will do.

The other night, I heated up some frozen beef barley soup that I had made a few weeks ago. I threw a pan of cornbread together and in no time, we were sitting at the table, enjoying a homemade dinner. I served it straight out of the frying pan with lots of salted butter (I love butter so much, I may be distantly related to the Barefoot Contessa). I wish.

Skillet-Sizzled Buttermilk Cornbread

1 c. stone-ground yellow cornmeal
1 c. all-purpose flour
1 T. baking powder
1/4 t. salt
1/4 t. baking soda
1 1/4 c. buttermilk
1 egg
2 T. white sugar
1/4 c. sunflower oil, or other mild oil of your choice
2-4 T. butter

A 10-inch in diameter cast iron skillet, or a 8x8 inch baking dish if you don't have a skillet

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
2. In a large bowl, combine the cornmeal, flour, baking powder, and salt.
3. In a small bowl, stir the baking soda into the buttermilk. In a second bowl, whisk together the egg, sugar, and the oil; then whisk in the buttermilk & baking soda.
4. Put the skillet over medium-high heat, add the butter, and heat until the butter melts and is just starting to sizzle. Tilt the pan to coat the bottom and sides.
5. Add the wet ingredients to the dry, and quickly stir together, using only as many strokes as needed to combine. Scrape the batter into the hot, buttery skillet. Immediately put the skillet in the oven and bake until golden brown, about 25 minutes. Cut into wedges and serve.

* Feel free to add different ingredients to this basic recipe. Cheese, corn, red peppers, green onions, etc. Watch your pan size if you are adding anything more to the recipe.

Monday, October 29, 2007

Butternut Squash Soup

Yesterday, I finally used the two butternut squashes that have been staring me in the face for at least a few weeks now. It was the thought of peeling those things that kept me from using them sooner. They aren't hard to peel, they are just one of those vegetables that doesn't rot quickly and therefore are easy to procrastinate about! With that said, make sure you use a sharp knife when peeling them.

The basis for this soup comes from the Barefoot Contessa's Parties Cookbook. She mentions that she got her idea from "The Silver Palate Cookbook". The biggest change I made to the Barefoot Contessa's recipe was to not include apple juice or apple cider and cutting the amount of apples down. I think the soup would be too sweet but that is just my taste. I also considered throwing in some chicken stock instead of the water but I wanted to have a strictly vegetarian soup and if you leave out the butter, it is actually a vegan soup.

This soup had me swooning in the kitchen after I pureed it and started to heat it up for dinner. The curry powder transformed the soup into a spicy, sort of, pumpkin pie flavour. No wonder I loved it!

Butternut Squash Soup

2 T. butter
2 T. olive oil
4 c. chopped onions (I used 2 red onions and about 8 shallots. I was out of yellow onions.)
2 T. mild curry powder
5 lbs butternut squash (2 large)
2 large cooking apples (mutsu are what I used)
2 t. kosher salt
1/2 t. fresh ground black pepper
Water

1. Warm the butter and olive oil in a large stockpot over low heat. Add the onions and curry powder and cook, uncovered, for 15 to 20 minutes, until the onions are tender. Stir occasionally, making sure the onions don't stick to the bottom of the pot.
2. Peel the squash, remove the seeds, and cut the squash into chunks. Peel, quarter, and core the apples.
3. Add the squash, apples, salt, pepper, and 2 cups of water to the pot. Bring to a boil, then cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 30 to 40 minutes, until the squash and apples are very soft. Puree the soup in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade.
4. Pour the soup back into the pot. Add enough water to make the soup the consistency you like; I like it quite thick and I added about 2 cups of water. Check for seasoning and serve hot.

Saturday, October 27, 2007

French Bistro Chicken

I admit that I am a softy for almost anything French. Especially the food. While working in France at Linda Meinhardt's Chateau, I was doing a lot of cooking, sometimes morning, noon and night. However, we managed to eat at the local restaurants during the times that we weren't catering to guests. Some meals were wonderful but more often than not, they were either mediocre or down right terrible (the restaurant meals, not the ones I was cooking!). When I sit down and eat this French Bistro chicken, I really feel that this is the way French food should taste. Simple and scrumptious.

This is another recipe from Sarah Leah Chase's "Cold-Weather Cooking" Cookbook. I first tried this recipe about 10 years ago and it always makes me very happy to eat it and to serve it. The fresh tarragon and whole shallots are an incredible combination. Serve this with mashed Yukon Gold potatoes and a leafy green salad with some fresh, chopped tarragon thrown in and dressed with a simple vinaigrette. If you don't have any dry vermouth in your liqueur cabinet, you could use dry white wine, or go out and get some vermouth and you will be surprised how often you can use it in your cooking.

French Bistro Chicken

1/4 c. olive oil
2 T. butter
2 chickens, 3 lbs. each approximately, cut up into pieces
1 pound shallots, peeled
2/3 c. dry white vermouth
1 T. fresh lemon juice
2 t. dried tarragon or 2 or 3 T. fresh chopped tarragon
Salt & freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 cans (14 ozs. each) artichoke hearts, drained and quartered
1 c. chicken broth, preferably homemade

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
2. Heat the olive oil and butter together in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Saute the chicken pieces in batches, starting skin side down and turning, until nicely browned all over. Transfer the chicken to a large baking pan and arrange the pieces in a single layer.
3. Pour off all but 3 T. of fat from the skillet. Add the shallots and saute until lightly browned, 7 to 8 minutes. Add the vermouth and lemon juice; cook, stir to deglaze, scraping up any brown bits clinging to the bottom of the skillet. Stir in the tarragon and season with salt & pepper. Add the artichoke hearts and toss to combine. Pour this mixture around the browned chicken pieces.
4. Cover the pan with aluminum foil and bake until very tender, about 45 minutes. Pour the accumulated juices from the chicken into a small saucepan. Add the chicken broth and boil until reduced by half, 5 to 7 minutes. Pour the sauce over the chicken and serve at once. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Tuesday, October 23, 2007

Tomato Lasagna

When I make lasagna, there used to be no doubt about what kind of dish it would be. It would have a meaty tomato sauce, ricotta cheese mixed with eggs and Parmesan, and a lot of mozzarella. Sounds good, but sometimes I don't have all of the ingredients in the fridge to whip something up on the spot like that.

Last winter, I was looking through a beautiful cookbook called "Apples for Jam: Recipes for Life" by Tessa Kiros. Ms. Kiros lives in Tuscany with her husband and children and this book is a collection of recipes that she cooks for her family and from her own childhood.

What made me take notice of this recipe was that I had all of the ingredients (maybe not the basil leaves) in the house on a very cold and snowy day. I also thought back to cooking school and the lasagnas that we would make there, all of them with bechamel sauce. I was never too keen on those versions but this recipe sounded so good, I had to give it a try.

I am so glad I did! I have made it several times since, sometimes throwing in an extra ingredient or two. The author recommends trying a few blobs of goat cheese, some dollops of pesto, a little cooked spinach or long slices of grilled zucchini. Try it all its own the first time. On a cold and nasty day, make the lasagna, throw together a nice green salad, pour some wine, and there you have it - comfort food at it's finest. Oh, and the kids will like it too!

Tomato Lasagna

Tomato Sauce:
1/2 c. olive oil
3 garlic cloves, peeled but left whole
1 large can and 1 small can diced tomatoes (totalling around 44 ozs.)
Fresh basil leaves, about 12

Bechamel Sauce:
1/2 c. butter
1/2 c. all purpose flour
4 c. milk, warmed
Freshly grated nutmeg

About 12 oz. lasagna sheets or a box of dried lasagna noodles
1 c. Parmesan cheese, or to taste

For the tomato sauce, heat the oil and garlic in a large pan. When you begin to smell the garlic, add the tomatoes and a good pinch of salt and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and cook uncovered for about 20-25 minutes, until it has all merged into a sauce. Add the basil and 1 c. of hot water towards then end of the cooking time. Puree until smooth, minus the garlic if you prefer.

For the bechamel, melt the butter in a small saucepan. Whisk in the flour and cook for a few minutes, stirring constantly, then begin adding the warm milk. It will be immediately absorbed, so work quickly, whisking with one hand while adding ladlefuls of milk with the other. When the sauce seems to be smooth and not too stiff, add salt, pepper and a grating of nutmeg (or a pinch of ground nutmeg) and continue cooking, even after it comes to the boil, for 5 minutes of so, mixing all the time. It should be a very thick and smooth sauce.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees and grease a 12x8 inch baking dish. Drizzle some bechamel over the bottom of the dish to cover it thinly. Put a slightly overlapping layer of lasagna sheets on top. Dollop a thin layer of tomato sauce over that, spreading it with the back of the ladle. Add about 2 ladlefuls of bechamel in long drizzles and then cover with a sprinkling of Parmesan. Add another layer of lasagna sheets, then tomato, bechamel and Parmesan as before, and then repeat the layers one more time. You should have about 3 tablespoons of tomato sauce and a good amount of bechamel left. Make a final layer of lasagna sheets and cover with all the remaining bechamel. Dollop the tomato sauce here and there and sprinkle with any remaining Parmesan. Bake for about 30 minutes, or until it is bubbling and golden on top. Serves 6-8.

* I have used both "ready-cook" pasta sheets and dried lasagna noodles. Whatever you have on hand is fine. Remember to cook the dried pasta noodles until al dente (or to your taste) before you layer them in the lasagna.

* Thanks for the cookbook, Shai!