Quahogs in Newport

This past weekend, we were in Newport, Rhode Island. We went for my cousin Beth's wedding, and ended up staying for the food (one extra day)!

On Friday afternoon, we were just getting to the house that we were renting for the weekend, and couldn't make our dinner reservation. I called to cancel and we quickly changed our plans, heading down to a local spot right near the beach; Flo's Clam Shack. Pitchers of beer and platters of seafood were in order. We had cold platters that had oysters, lobster, clams, peel & eat shrimp, etc., and fried platters with scallops, shrimp, calamari, fish, and who knows what else! I also ordered everyone spicy fried quahogs. They were large shells (intact), filled with a cornbready mixture, held together with large elastic bands, and presumably deep-fried (described by Flo's as being an ancient Portuguese tradition). They were alright (I probably wouldn't order them again), but on top of all the other fried delights, we had our fill of deep-fry that day!

Saturday morning, we had the pleasure of heading out on a beautiful schooner for a sail around the bay. The ride was kicked off with pomegranate mimosas, scones, muffins, & coffee. The first sail was for family, and then there was a second sail for friends of the bride & groom. I went along on both sails, as I was the Maid of Honour, and the bride needed me (it was a tough job but I was up for the challenge!). I was quite happy to let my family go off for lunch without me while I headed back out onto the water for another sail. On the second sail, we had champagne, sandwiches, kettle chips, and delicious cookies.

While I was gone on the second sail, my family (including my parents, Alan & the kids, my sister Lori, her husband Jake, and little Hugh) decided they would go to The Mooring restaurant, which had been highlighted on a Giada De Laurentiis show. They enjoyed clam chowder and lobster fritters with chipotle aioli. I was very jealous, as they knew I would be, so they took pictures for me. Thanks. My Mom ordered fresh tuna for lunch, medium rare. Well, she's definitely a convert. Next thing we know, she will be eating sushi!

For dinner on Saturday night, my parents went to a very nice restaurant called "22 Bowen". They had a lovely evening. The rest of us ended up back at Flo's Clam Shack. The cafeteria-style restaurant wasn't our first choice but when you are taking a 10 month old out for dinner, sometimes it helps if the restaurant is loud and slightly chaotic (before we get there!). This time, we each ordered what we wanted and I had "Clams Casino" and "Oystas Rockafella". I especially enjoyed the "Oystas"! Alan ordered the pint (2 cups) of fried scallops and lived to regret that decision. Just a bad case of indigestion, not helped by shots of tequila later on that evening.

The wedding was held at at a magical place called Castle Hill, on Sunday evening. The food was fantastic, and I have decided my biggest regret from the wedding was not eating more hors d'eurves! I did manage to try a goat cheese and caramelized onion tart, a miniature beef Wellington, and a thin slice of potato topped with creme fraiche and caviar.

For the wedding dinner, we had a velvety smooth spring pea and mint soup, served warm. It was so smooth and delicious, I could have licked the bowl (but I didn't!). The majority of the guests were served a fancy version of a clambake for their main entree. This consisted of all the usual elements of an East coast clam bake, just in a smaller, more elegant presentation. A perfectly cooked lobster tail, two clams, two small pieces of sausage, one baby red skin potato sliced in half, corn already sliced off the cob, and a delicious butter sauce ladled over at your request. It was beautiful to look at and scrumptious as well. (picture is Castle Hill from the water)

The day after the wedding, my family decided that we should splurge and go to Castle Hill again, this time for lunch. As we sat watching world-class sailing vessels zip by us, we enjoyed an unforgettable lunch. I started with local oysters, served with a mignonette, and a saffron sorbet. There were only four small oysters, which was very disappointing, only because they were so darn good! For my main, I went with the scallops which were pan-seared and served with a Yukon gold potato and spring pea sauce. They were cooked to perfection, but again, they were not all that plentiful. What I wish I would have had is what my Mom ordered, the lamb gyro. My Mom was in the bathroom when the lamb gyro was served and Lori and I both tried small pieces of lamb before she got back to the table. It was so good! The kids started with clam chowder, and then had a turkey and applewood-smoked bacon sandwich. Everything was excellent, including the behaviour of the kids, which let's face it, can make or break any meal!

Later that afternoon, I stayed behind with the kids while everyone went into town again. They happened to see a fisherman coming in off his boat with lobster and crab for sale. They bought a dozen or so crabs and six large lobsters, all for around $50. Back at the house, Jake & Lori cooked the creatures in mixtures of beer and onions. The whole house smelled yeasty; like a bread bakery in the very early hours of the morning. The dinner was a little messy, but that was fine as we were eating outside. The bride & groom joined us for the impromptu dinner and we all enjoyed recounting stories from the wedding weekend extravaganza!

On our way out of Newport on Tuesday morning, we went down to the docks and found a little coffee shop that had also been highlighted on Giada's show. "The Coffee Grinder" was a tiny spot, perfectly situated at the foot of the docks. We had coffees, cinnamon buns, muffins, and a really moist banana bread with chunks of Hershey's chocolate. The perfect ending to a delicious weekend.

What Are You Doing Saturday?

The recipe section on the "Clean Food Connection" website is now up and running! I will be contributing recipes to the website, as well as taking suggestions, comments, etc.

Check out the site at www.cleanfoodconnection.com and click the recipe button at the left side of the page.

To kick off this exciting new venture, I am going to be at the Clean Food Connection in Mount Albert, Ontario this Saturday with a few samples, recipes, and lots of ideas for using ingredients from the store. If you happen to be in Mount Albert on Saturday between 11 and 4, come in and say hi! Here is the ad that has been in our local news magazine. See you there!

Homemade Falafel with Sesame Tahini Sauce

I really must hand it to the author of "The Flexitarian Table", Peter Berley. Well done on this cookbook! There are so many recipes in this book that I want to make, and several that I have made already. When I saw this particular menu, I knew it was love...

Summer Menu #10
Spicy Roasted Pepper Soup with Goat Cheese and chives
Whole Wheat Pita Bread
Spiced Lamb Croquettes
Falafel
Two Traditional Sauces: Hot Sauce (Zhoug) and Sesame Tahini Sauce
Cucumber, Red Onion, and Tomato Salad

The recipe that intrigued me the most was the falafel. I have had some really tasty (crunchy, hot, fresh) falafel; Jerusalem Restaurant in Toronto comes to mind. Then there are the not-so-great versions (pre-cooked and re-heated to order, spongy, dry). Plenty of those around all over Canada, I would guess.

The one stumbling block that I have with recipes calling for dry legumes is the pre-soaking step. How many times has it happened that I have everything else called for in the recipe, but it is too late to do anything with the dried legumes in question? So frustrating, and occasionally makes me think about getting a pressure cooker. On this particular day, the thought struck me in the morning and there is a way to "quick soak" the chickpeas, in an hour or so. "Place the chickpeas in a saucepan with cold water to cover by at least 1 inch, bring the water to a boil, and boil for 1 to 2 minutes, then remove from the heat, cover the pan, and let sit for at least hour, or up to 3 hours, before draining and cooking." It must be said that canned chickpeas will not work for this recipe. Besides the quick boil, the chickpeas are not cooked at all until they hit the oil. Apparently, this is why the baking soda is so important to this recipe. The baking soda makes the chickpeas easier to digest, and it also lightens up the finished falafel.

Another nice thing about this recipe are the instructions for the oil temperature. I kept my trusty candy thermometer on the pot the whole time and I had excellent results. It took a long time for the oil to get up to 360 degrees, and if I had just been eyeballing it, I would have started cooking the falafel long before the oil was hot enough. This has happened to me time and again, and when the oil isn't hot enough, whatever you're frying just soaks up the oil instead of really being cooked by it. In a nut shell, the oil has to be hot enough to sear the outside almost immediately. I use rice bran oil for deep-frying but it isn't widely available, and it will most likely be getting very expensive with rice being at a premium these days. (A few years ago, Alan was importing rice bran oil from the US, but stopped due to lack of demand). Once I run out of rice bran oil (will be happening very soon), I will probably use sunflower oil.

The only dishes from the menu above that I didn't make are the soup and the whole wheat pitas. With that said, I would LOVE to make my own pitas. It would take this menu from wonderful to over-the-moon! The sauces really made the meal (my fifth food group is "sauces", so it isn't surprising that I feel this way). I will share the sesame tahini sauce with you so that when you make the falafel, you will have something to accompany them, at your fingertips.

In the original recipe, cumin and coriander seeds are called for, with a note saying "preferably toasted and freshly ground". If you only have ground cumin and coriander in the house, I wouldn't let this stop you from making the falafel. However, to toast and grind your own cumin and coriander is very simple and the pungency of the spices are probably double that of the pre-ground stuff. On Sunday, when I was making these, I toasted cumin seeds (just place in a dry pan over medium heat and watch carefully until they start to turn golden and give off lots of aroma), but I used pre-ground coriander. I can still smell the freshly ground cumin in my cupboard every time I open it (it really should be in a sealed container as opposed to a ramekin covered with plastic wrap). I have an old coffee bean grinder that I use for spices now, and thirty seconds in that thing, and the ground cumin is good to go.

The spiced lamb croquettes were outstanding, as well! For dinner, we tucked falafel and lamb croquettes into pitas with the tomato, cucumber & red onion salad, and plenty of the sauces, and it was just like being at a really good Middle Eastern restaurant, but better because we were at home. And this is a great time to point out that the recipes for the falafel and the lamb both serve about three people, making it an excellent dinner for vegetarians and meat-eaters to share. I doubled the falafel recipe when I made it because it seemed like a lot of effort to make so few. I am glad I did, because after I tried one, I took a couple outside for Alan and one of our neighbours, then they requested more, and by the time we finished dinner, there was only one falafel left!

Homemade Falafel

1 c. lightly packed fresh cilantro or flat-leaf parsley leaves, coarsely chopped
1 1/2 c. dried chickpeas, soaked and drained*
3 t. fresh lemon juice
6 T. finely chopped red onion
2 garlic clove, chopped
2 t. ground cumin
1 1/2 t. sea salt or kosher salt
1 t. ground coriander
1 t. baking soda (important; do not leave out!)
1/4 t. cayenne pepper, or to taste
8 grinds black pepper
4-6 c. vegetable oil, for deep frying

1. In a food processor, pulse the cilantro or parsley until finely chopped. Add the chickpeas and pulse until they are finely ground (they should have the consistency of cracker crumbs). Add the lemon juice, onion, garlic, cumin, salt, coriander, baking soda, cayenne, and black pepper and pulse to combine. The mixture should hold its shape when squeezed. If not, process for a few more seconds and maybe add a bit more lemon juice. Transfer to a large bowl and toss well.

2. Fill a medium heavy saucepan or a Dutch oven with at least 3 inches of oil, attach a deep-frying (candy) thermometer to the side of the pot, and heat the oil to 360 degrees (the temperature will drop when the falafel is added but should never dip before below 350 degrees). Line the platter with paper towels.

3. Moisten your hands and divide the falafel mixture into about 20 or so equal portions (about 2 tablespoons each). Form each into a disc about a 1/2-inch thick, moistening your hands as needed while you work.

4. Fry the falafel a few at a time, turning halfway through, until well browned, about 4 minutes per batch. Transfer to the paper-towel-lined platter to drain. Return the oil to 360 degrees before adding each batch. Serve warm.

*I fried three falafel at a time. The oil starts rolling quite vigorously when the falafel are added so make sure that you use a large pot. I strained the leftover oil and I am keeping for the next time I make these, which isn't too far off! Please be very careful whenever you are cooking with hot oil.

Sesame Tahini Sauce

3/4 c. tahini
5 T. fresh lemon juice (from about 2 lemons)
1 garlic clove, mashed with 3/4 teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt
1/4 t. cayenne pepper, or to taste
3/4 c. water

1. In a bowl, whisk together the tahini, lemon juice, garlic paste, and cayenne. Whisk in the water until smooth. Transfer to a small bowl. The sauce can be made up to three days in advance and refrigerated, covered. Bring to room temperature before serving.

*My tahini was quite hard and had separated from the oil. I mixed it in the jar the best I could and then smoothed it out in the bowl with a wooden spoon. Use room temperature water (or a little warmer) and the sauce should smooth out fine when you whisk it.

Solo Sushi Ya

News flash! We have found a really good restaurant in Newmarket, Ontario! It's actually better than good - it was sublime. After living in this area for more than six years, I had pretty much given up hope of ever having a stand-out restaurant close to home... until now!

I found out about this place from reading the restaurant reviews in "Toronto Life" magazine. I was shocked that there was a restaurant in our neck of the woods that had garnered three stars. I had never heard of the place before. I made up my mind that we had to go, and what a great reason for a special dinner... our anniversary is today.

"Solo Sushi Ya" isn't in the nicest or most noticeable of spots in Newmarket. However, from the minute we walked through the door, I knew we had found the right place. More traditional than many Canadian-style Japanese restaurants that have popped up all over the place, this place has the feeling of authenticity. Alan & I both ordered the "Omikase" menu or the chef's choice menu, with one or both of us saying, "let's just go for it!". As it turned out, IT was dreamy. IT was mouthwatering goodness. IT was only 15 minutes from home!

I wish I had taken paper and a pen for documenting what we were served, but I will try to remember the highlights. Alan ordered a Sapporo beer and it was served with a really frosty beer glass. I must say, it's little details like this that make me very happy! Then we started with a piece of warm smoked mackerel that was perfectly smoked, tender, and a delightful way to get our taste buds going. There was a piece of very rich salmon (belly, perhaps) on top of some mushrooms in a delicious sauce in an oyster shell. Almost reminded me of Oysters Rockefeller - Japanese-style. On that same plate, a little vegetarian morsel that I couldn't really identify, but was tasty. The coolest thing about it was it's garnish. Two fir tree needles were stuck in the veggie creation, still joined at the top, as nature intended.

Next, bowls of hot broth with clams and seaweed, and a knotted little bunch of glass noodles. Had to eat the whole knot of noodles in one bite. Great texture. The clams tasted like they had just been taken out of the ocean. Keeping in mind that Newmarket isn't exactly known for it's coastline, this was almost like a little bit of magic. There was a dish of "butter fish" in a sweet sauce that was pale in comparison to the sashimi that followed. Oh my, oh my. The soy sauce was so rich & thick; the wasabi was very soft and fresh. The fish was simple, but exquisite. Ahi tuna, white tuna, salmon, prawn. Everything was presented beautifully. Alan was doing most of the talking at this point, and I was able to convince him to give me a piece of his fish, after I had already finished my own. It is those little things that make me so happy that I married him!

I really cannot remember at least two of the courses that we had, although I do remember that the last course before dessert was sushi (on rice with wasabi). Again, perfection. Everything was at the right temperature. The barbecued eel was almost like candy, with just the right amount of smoke. For dessert, I had the ginger ice cream and Alan had the green tea ice cream. The candied ginger chunks in the ice cream couldn't make me forget my disappointment that such a meal had to end. I wish we could have ended the meal up with a cappuccino and the warm, flourless chocolate cake from "Terroni" in Toronto, but maybe I am getting greedy now?

As we were leaving, we went to thank the chef/owner. He was more than happy to tell us that he has many VIP's who dine at his restaurant, including Adrienne Clarkson, the former Governor General of Canada. He even said that "Hollywood" comes north to Newmarket when they are in town. Who would have imagined that??? Don't pinch me; I don't want to wake up yet!

Check it out and read some reviews at www.solosushiya.com

Charmoula Marinade

Since trying this charmoula, I don't think I can go back to just plain old meat on the barbie! The first time I made it, I bought a fresh leg of lamb from the butcher, and cut it into small cubes. After marinating for several hours, we threaded the lamb onto skewers with red onions and sweet peppers. Kebabs really don't take long to cook, and when you are using a charcoal barbeque, the shorter the time on the grill, the less likely you will have any mistakes. To go along with the lamb, I made a dried fruit couscous with dried cherries and currants, a lime raita, and a green salad. Oh, what a night! For dessert, I made the baked custard (see April 2008). We don't eat like that every night, let me assure you, but my friend Shaila just happened to be in town again. If friends make the effort to visit us in Mount Albert, I aim to please!

The charmoula, couscous, and lime raita recipes all come from the same book - "The Flexitarian Table" by Peter Berley. I picked it up at the library but it is definitely one to buy. Here is the definition of flexitarian.
Flexitarian (n) 1. A person who is mainly vegetarian but who occasionally eats fish or meat or 2. Someone who is not a vegetarian but enjoys meatless meals.

I definitely fall into the latter category! The great thing about this cookbook are the veg and non-veg options for each meal. For example, if half of your family eats meat and the other half don't, the charmoula lamb recipe actually comes with directions for doing half lamb and half tempeh (I have never tried tempeh, but one of these days...). The book is full of delicious recipes, which are divided into seasons. It really is a gem.

The second time I made the charmoula, I got wise and kept half of it for another meal. I sliced sirloin steak (pop it in the freezer for half an hour or so and it slices beautifully) and did everything the same as I did for lamb. Really delicious! Then on Friday, the kids & I did a road trip down to Niagara to see my nephew Hugh. I took the other half of the charmoula and we marinated chicken breast. Again, fantastic! The meat always stays nice and moist (be sure not to over cook it). Keep your meat and vegetables close together on the skewer. If you are using wooden skewers, soak them in water before using them on the barbeque, or use metal skewers. At your next barbeque, you will have grown men swooning!

Charmoula Marinade

1/3 c. fresh lemon juice
1/2 c. packed coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1/2 c. packed coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
4 garlic cloves, peeled
2 1/2 t. sea salt or kosher salt
2 t. ground cumin
1 t. ground coriander
1 t. smoked paprika (or use sweet paprika)
Pinch of cayenne, or more to taste
1/2 c. extra-virgin olive oil

In a food processor, combine all of the ingredients, except the oil. Process to a smooth paste. Add the oil and process until thoroughly combined. Cut the meat (lamb, beef, or chicken) into cubes or strips. Marinate the meat of choice from 2 to 24 hours in the fridge. Depending on how much meat you are marinating, you should have enough to save half for another dinner. Either store the marinade in the fridge for 3 or 4 days or freeze it until you need it.

Apple Cinnamon Twists on Seymour Beach

I grew up on Seymour Beach, in a house that my parents still live in today. It is on the north side of Lake Erie, and almost as far south as you can go in Canada. There are about ten houses that line the waterfront of Seymour Beach, many of these belonging to Americans and being used as summer cottages. I have known some of my parent's neighbours almost all of my life, literally.

That goes for my friend, Kristin, and her family. We played together every summer, and we continue that tradition to this day. Now we all have kids and our kids get to play together every summer. It is really something that I cherish. Kristin has wonderful parents. Al & Evie were like second parents to me during those years, and each summer it is a real treat to get to spend time with them.

Sometime back in the early to mid 90's, I started making these "apple cinnamon twists". Since each recipe makes two pie plates of buns, I had plenty to spare, so I trotted a plate of warm buns over to Al & Evie's cottage. The impact that those buns had on Al, in particular, was incredible. He has never, NEVER, forgotten these buns. Every summer he mentions them to me, the hopefulness in his voice never wavering. Over the years, I have baked many things that I have shared around the beach. Last year, I made the triple ginger scones, which Kristin had requested after having them the year before. But for Al, nothing will ever eclipse the magic of the "Seymour Beach Apple Cinnamon Twists".